For far too long, the people of León have yearned for a kitchen that wasn’t so anchored to the past. Cocido, embutido, morcilla, lechazo asado and other traditional dishes were not missing from the best restaurants in the city of León, which indeed were almost all faithful guardians of tradition. But then a silent revolution, backed by technique and an updated way of understanding gastronomy began, which made us forget—even if only for a while—about tapas. All revolutionaries at heart, we began to sit at the table to let ourselves be guided on a culinary journey that respects its roots but dares to break the established rules.
Pablo
Since, inevitably, at some point during your visit to León, you will want to see the cathedral, we urge you to walk all the way around it until you reach the rear of the cathedral cloister. There, on the Avenida de los Cubos, beside the late-Roman wall that protected the settlement of the legions, lies Pablo, a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Authorial cuisine is what Juanjo Losada practices, accompanied by Yolanda Rojo in the dining room, where a tasting menu is served in which seasonal products are never missing. Venison, squared—or rather, circular—why not? But also asparagus, truffles and artichokes, as the seasons dictate. “We are making quite a few botanical ferments, like a miso with flowers, but we also prepare different kombuchas for pairing or intended for cocktails,” explains the chef, who also recommends a couple of desserts: one hazelnut, chocolate and San Jorge mushrooms and another with pear and Jamaica pepper with fresh cheese.
Two people, like the two Repsol suns they display, who always welcome the twenty or so diners with a smile and dishes as Leónese as the leek and cecina. “We use the whole leek by blending it and dehydrating the green part, which forms a sheet almost like paper that retains all the flavor,” explains Juanjo.
