If a trip north is always a good idea, now that the heat has become a constant it is even more so. For those cool nights, for the evergreen landscapes and the sea that is rarely far away, for temperatures that never prevent you from being on a terrace or taking a stroll. And for its gastronomy.
The A Mariña region, the Lugo coast through which Galicia peers out toward the Cantabrian Sea, is no exception. That stretch of shore, where beaches and cliffs alternate, is a constant surprise, a place that combines historic towns, such as Viveiro or Mondoñedo, with old whaling villages and landscapes capable of leaving you speechless. There you have the As Catedrais beach, also called Augas Santas, or the Illa Pancha lighthouse, if you don’t believe it, as examples.
Ribadeo is its eastern capital, a place with a slow pace, already facing Asturias from the far bank of the Eo River, full of corners with an Indiano vibe, mansions from another era and places to simply linger, with nothing to do but enjoy the calm and the atmosphere.
It is here, in the center of this town, where one of Galicia’s little gastronomic secrets that the region always keeps in its sleeve lies, a nearly century-old venue that has known how to reinvent itself and that, without seeking the spotlight, has earned a name as the reference bar of A Mariña, frequented by both locals and visitors: El Oviedo.
The first documents, which are displayed in the place, say that by the early 1940s it was already a consolidated spot, which probably means its origins go back a few more years. This house at the start of one of those slopes that overlook the estuary, a stone’s throw from Praza de España, the town’s zero kilometer, has seen generations of Ribadenses pass through and, in recent years, under new management, has given form to its own style.
The entrance may seem like that of a bar, one of many, but few things here are as they appear. It is made clear at first glance by the wine offerings, one of the most interesting in the entire province, with dozens of by-the-glass options, here and there. Do you want a sparkling with an oyster? Go ahead. A Sherry with some local fish? Perfect. One of those gems from small producers inland Galicia to accompany a spicier proposal? Speak with Lucía, who will surely find what you are looking for on that menu, extensive and changing, which she handles with ease.
