When I arrived in Madrid more than a decade ago, La Latina on Sundays was the thing. It was the patriotic day for one of the capital’s most castizo neighborhoods. The plan was always the same: hop from tavern to tavern along Cava Baja, sit for a little in Plaza de Carros and enjoy the sunset at San Francisco el Grande, all after an obligatory morning stroll through El Rastro. Little by little, the overtourism and gentrification have taken away some of the magic from these centuries‑old streets, especially the best known ones, but that doesn’t take away the fact that the neighborhood still has a lot of personality.
After spending a spell in this grid framed by the Puerta de Toledo, Segovia Street, Plaza de Cascorro (although some would place it as part of the Latin Quarter) and Bailén, these are my favorites for enjoying La Latina.
Bars, which spots
It is known that already in the seventeenth century Calle de la Cava Baja had a use similar to today. Taking advantage of its location outside the walls, numerous taverns and inns began to open for those who came to do business in the nearby markets of San Miguel and La Cebada. Of course, its reputation was not the best. Over time, La Latina ended up being a neighborhood in the city center, although that old wall can still be found.
But back to the point. Cava Baja has archicknown neighbors like Casa Lucio or La Posada de la Villa, but it’s always a good idea to park yourself at the bar of Taberna Tempranillo (Cava Baja, 38). The mastermind of this temple of wine lives upstairs—the Zamoran Juan Caballero—who three decades ago launched a modest space that has become a hub for any La Latina resident. Las mollejas (lamb sweetbreads, very elegant) are mandatory, as well as the tosta de chipirones, although, in my opinion—this is personal—I’m crazy for their albóndigas and garbanzos. One note: they do not accept reservations, so if you want to grab a seat, go early or late.
Si eres de torreznos, los que sirve en la barra de Capitán Alatriste te sacan de un aprieto. De diez eran los que tenía Infame, que hace un tiempo decidió sustituirlos por una adictiva careta de cochinillo. De hecho, este restaurante que llegó en 2022 ha ido evolucionando hasta posicionarse como una de las mejores casas de comidas de la zona. Álex Santamaría trabaja unos fogones que saben a su País Vasco patrio, con un pil pil perfecto, aunque también borda los callos y todo lo que sea cuchareo. Los fines de semana es mejor reservar, pues el comedor tiene pocas mesas, y dejarse llevar por una carta que va jugando con la temporada. Entre semana, es de esos lugares donde apuntarse que se puede disfrutar de un buen menú del día.
