The course that the Moselle traces through German soil, with the aim of meeting the Rhine, is, to say the least, picturesque. Some of its frankly pronounced meanders remind us that not only the Sil and the Douro know how to sway gracefully toward their estuary. The river —which runs through the town of Cochem— and its green waters travel across the Rhineland-Palatinate region as if they were dancing a waltz, moving with restraint and in circles, filling one of the coldest areas of the German nation with life and color.
The Moselle’s passage through this small town is, above all, romantic. It could almost be identified with a Brahms cello sonata. And perhaps that is why it becomes so magical when night falls and artificial lights strike the water of the river, reflecting in flickering sparkles. Beauty is an understatement, even more so when winter stubbornly colors Germany in gray. But once you reach Cochem, you realize you were mistaken.
The Two Banks
What first catches the eye upon arriving in Cochem is that this weave of colorful houses is split into two by the Moselle. Although all the beautiful and visitable spots lie on the western bank of the river, in the “East Cochem” there is a campsite where you can stay at a reasonable price and where pets are welcome, making it a viable option for travelers with furry companions.
Before crossing the bridge, there is a very curious place to visit on this stretch of the river, located beside a chic adults-only hotel, another excellent lodging option for those who want to skip any hassle. It is an old bunker of the German federal bank, currently converted into a museum where time seems to have stood still. The exhibits feature a full recreation of some of the most notable episodes in the history of the Federal Republic of Germany, such as the deposit of 15 billion marks in the form of a secret coin during the Cold War.
